INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 CORNICE INSTALLATION NOTES

 CUTTING MITRES

Unlike ‘Coving’ Cornices vary in size so a standard Mitre box cannot be used to form the 45-degree mitres, you can make your own mitres box to suit the Cornices size or by cutting the Cornice as below:

CUTTING BENCH:

Set-up a cutting bench on a flat surface and fix a series of uprights to the bench at 90-degrees to support the ‘WALL’ part of the Cornice with the ‘CEILING’ part of the Cornice on the bench face up.

DIRECTIONS:

Sit the Cornice to its correct ‘wall /’ceiling’ position as it will be fixed but ‘upside down’, measure the Cornices ceiling projection ‘forward’ or ‘backwards’ and cut with a hand saw to form the required ‘internal’ or ‘external’ mitre.

INSTALLATION

We install using a combination of both Adhesive and screws.

ADHESIVE

TYPE: We sell adhesive, but any ‘plasterboard’ or ‘cove’ adhesive will work just as well. 

DIRECTIONS: Dab adhesive every 400mm to the top and bottom edges of the Cornice and use between mitres & joints to eliminate cracking.

Care to taken to not let Adhesive set on the face of the Cornice as it’s harder than the Cornice so will be hard to remove without damaging the Cornice.

SCREWS

TYPE: 32mm-48mm zinc plated drywall screw (do not use “Black’ painted screws which will rust through)

DIRECTIONS: Countersink the Cornice and fix through the timber laths located along the top & bottom front edges of the Cornice every 500mm in alternating 45-degree angles, so to lock into background.Screws fixings may not be required on smaller Cornices.

MAKING GOOD

We recommend using a ‘Lightweight’ filler for filling the holes made for the ‘Screw’ fixings as it’s easy use & sand.

PAINT

Treat as you would ’normal’ plaster:

2 x coats of watered down emulsion (60% paint / 40% water)

2 x coat of emulsion

2 x final colour